Putting the Cockpit Windows In

It's been sometime since I last put up a post and that's simply because progress has been virtually at a stand still since the beginning of November when I fired up 'The Beast' for the first time and started loading software. Work has simply just kept me too busy to be able to spend any time building.

However, over the last couple of weeks I have been putting in the perspex windows.  Perspex is a good material to use as it has good clarity and it's flexible which helps to provide a realistic curve to the windshields.

It's worth researching and reading up about how to work with Perspex - although it is flexible, it can split or shatter quite easily if you don't use the right tools to cut and drill it......as I found out. So this is what I did:

• To cut it, I used my renovator tool rather than a circular saw as this prevented the Perspex shattering.



The Renovator (left) is much more suitable for cutting the perspex compared to a circular saw

Sorry if you're squeamish - lesson learnt!

• Whatever you do, don't do what I did - last Saturday I was trying to cut Perspex with a craft knife - I couldn't be bothered going down to my workshop.......40 minutes down the road to the nearest medical centre open on a Saturday and 9 stitches later.

Use a metal drill bit (left) - not a wood one (right)

• Secondly, I thought it would be sensible to use a wood drill to drill a hole in perspex - wrong! All this did was crack the perspex, but thankfully in this case not in a place that would be in my face the whole time. I found the best way of drilling was to drill a pilot hole first with a metal drill and then re-drill with a bit of the right size - don't be tempted to drill at too high-a-speed, this could again cause cracking.

• Make sure you drill the holes over-sized and use  screws with large flat heads otherwise again you risk cracking the plastic.  If you do crack the plastic, then take a small drill bit and drill a hole at the end of the crack - this will stop it extending further (actual practice used on aircraft cracks).

To provide a bit of realism I've added a foam lining to the windows to represent the rubber seals.  Trying to buy something that would do the job was either impossible or ridiculously expensive, so I ended up cutting up an old foam camping mat (without managing to slice my finger ;-) ). You can see the lining in the photo with the crack. 

Here are the windows all in place - I haven't stripped  the protecting cover off completely yet until I'm certain I've finished all the construction on the outside. Also, you can see  that where the Flight and Engine instrument  monitors are I've covered these with MDF lined on the inner face with the plastic sheeting that came with the monitors to protect the screens - it will also help to keep the dust off when not in use.

Now, I have a question that I would love an answer to!  On the centre pillar of  the BAe 146's windshield there are two orange balls, mounted horizontally.  I've simulated this using two widget balls out of a couple of cans of Guiness, but can anyone tell me what this device is?  I suspect it's some sort of turn and balance device, but I could be completely wrong.  I look forward to hearing from you.

PDC172 Comes Alive

Today has been a very significant day.  Apart from the All Blacks winning the Rugby World Cup, it's also bee the day that I've fired up the Beast (the name of my Flight Sim computer) for the first time while it's connected to the data projectors and the monitors in the cockpit.

This is just a Cessna cockpit, but what it shows is that the interfacing is working, but there's a long way to go to get it fully up and running

To remind you, I've built a 180^o curved screen and, although I've still got to get the position of  the projectors right, this image shows that the principles are right.  I will need  to get warping software in order to get the perspective right on the screens....sadly this software is not cheap from what I can see - $400-500 - ouch!

Data Projection - Not Quite Right!

.......Oh well, attempt number one didn't work!

I had assumed that the image coming out of a data projector would be projected straight out from the projector, but that does not seem to be the case.  I've got two Dell S320 that I bought in Singapore while we were on holiday there last year (Reason: I bought these through a retail shop in Singapore, it was so much cheaper than what Dell NZ  could offer, even after trying to negotiate with them.  In my view it's just not right that prices vary so much depending on the country you live in - ).

When I switch the projectors on with the projectors set to ceiling mounted, the image projected right down at the bottom of the screen.  I looked for options through the menu to change this, but no joy......I took the whole set up down to try again.

What am I trying to do?  Well, I'm now hoping to mount the projectors 'right-way-up' near the ceiling, but as these images show, with the short throw projectors, I've got them angled down at about 45 degrees and they are still not low enough!  I've sent an email to Dell Technical Support to se if there is something I'm missing setting-wise.

If anyone knows or can help please feel free to comment.

I'm planning on making jigs similar to the ceiling mounted ones to try and solve the problem.  As a start,  I used SketchUp, once again, to help with getting the dimensions right - I really do recommend this as it has helped me on this project and others on many occasions.

Even now after remounting the projectors it's still not right, but it's much better - so it will have to be on trial and error until I get it right.

Mounting the Data Projectors

I'm using two Dell S320 short throw projectors for the scenery on the semi-circular screen. As the radius of the screens is 1.5m, these need to be angled downwards at angle of about 30 degrees. Most data projector ceiling mounts don't rotate that much, so I've had to devise my own system for doing this. With one piece of wood cut to an angle of 45 degrees to angle the projector to the right quadrant of the screen and  the other to 30 degrees to point it downwards, I've been able construct a method to resolve this as the image below shows.

Having connected  the mounts to the blocks of wood and the data projectors to the mounts I joined the two projectors together with a  metre length of wood - this was simply to help with the mounting of the projectors on the gantry (temporarily clamped to the kitchen work bench). This image clearly shows the two angles 45 and 30 degrees.

Dell S320 Projectors mounted on their stands and the bar

Finally the two projectors and the bar are mounted on the gantry - hopefully my measurements and calculations will be about right.

In position on the gantry - the screen behind

The next step will be to power them up and make some basic adjustments before connecting everything else up...........

'The Beast'' is Created

The Components.  With the main components delivered, I went and bought the case, a 1000W PSU and a couple of extra cooling fans last weekend.  So this week has been spend building the Beast.  I'll be making a video that chronicles the build when I have time, but in the meantime here is a photo-diary highlighting some of the key events and issues.  It's got to be pretty grunty so I've gone for an Intel i7 processor, the GTX 980 graphics card, an SSD drive and 16Gb of RAM all mounted on an ASUS Sabertooth Z97 motherboard.

M/B Cooling Fans.  The first step is to set up the motherboard.  This is best done before it's mounted into the case. The Z97 comes with what ASUS calls a Tuf case that protects key components from dust and accidental damage.   It also comes with a couple of extra cooling fans that blow cooling air underneath this Tuf cover, but these need  to be installed by the buyer.

40mm cooling fan mounted on the I/O ports

What the Forums Say!  There is some debate on various forums whether these fans are needed, but in my view it is best to install them as this can only help with cooling - some people are suggesting the fans are noisy, but having carried out a test start on my machine there was nothing untoward.  Also as this will be driving Flight Sim there's going to be jet noise anyway so an extra fan or two making a bit of noise won't make much difference ;-)

 Following the Instructions.  Following the instructions that come with the motherboard makes installation pretty straight forward.  The only area where I was a little uncertain was the connection of the case cooling fans (explained later).  I also wasn't too certain about the placing of  the thermistor sensors (again, more later).  Don't forget to use an earthing mat and wrist strap to discharge any static charge.

 Installing the Processor.  The processor is also best installed before you mount the motherboard in the case - space becomes a bit more restricted once the motherboard is installed.  This is pretty straightforward.  There is a blank on the head of  the processor bay which the instructions say MUST NOT be removed until after the processor is installed - not really sure why other then to protect the mounting position.  To install, lift the spring lever and carefully place the processor onto it's mount.  Look carefully at both the processor and the mount beforehand to check which way round it goes.  Depending on the processor you are using, you will find either one corner blanked or in the case of the Intel i7 there are two notches positioned on the side of the chip that correspond with two ridges on the mount.  Once in position carefully lower the spring clip and lock it in position.  As you do so the blank will pop off.

RAM.  I'm initially installing 16Gb of Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB which comes in 2 sticks of 8Gb. The instructions specify that these are installed into specific ports. The number of sticks being put in determines the ports that they go into. I found it easiest to install the RAM before installing the motherboard, but in reality it doesn't matter which way round you do it - the only thing to remember is that once the motherboard is installed, access and light becomes more restricted.

CPU Cooling Fan and  the RAM

Cooling Fans.  As there is a possibility that I might be overclocking this beast I decided that I would add a couple of additional fans to the case and a larger cooling fan for the processor. I originally tried mounting the case fans to extract air out the top, but having put the the motherboard in (next paragraph) there just wasn't enough space for everything.  I took one out from the top and placed it in the base to suck cool air in. (note:  because of the size of the CPU fan I installed  this after I had installed the motherboard - again, a matter of preference).

Installing the Motherboard.  When you're ready, prepare case by taking off the side panel(s).  These are usually held in place with a couple of small screws at the back and then once removed, the panels can be slide back a couple of centimeters and lifted off.  Inside the case you should find a box or bag with all the screws and accessories needed to install the motherboard and drives. Make sure to connect the earthing cable and the check the stand-offs match the screw holes on your motherboard.

Before you install the motherboard remember to clip in the backing plate for the I/O ports.  Carefully place the motherboard into position by partly rotating it placing the I/Os in place first and then lowering onto the standoffs so that the screw holes line up.  Screw the motherboard in place by first putting one screw in but not tightening it and then screw the rest in taking care not to over tighten them.

Motherboard without the I/O cover in place

Installing the Rest.  Once  the motherboard is in place, it just a matter of following the instructions to install the rest of the components and connect the various leads.  As well as the instruction booklet for each part and the motherboard booklet, there are also numerous YouTube videos that you can follow - my recommendation is to not just look at one, but check out several in order to get the full picture.  The components include the SSD, the DVD R/W drive and finally the GeForce GTX 980 Graphics card.  All of this was straight forward and relatively simple.  The only areas that proved a challenge - not forgetting that this is the first PC I'm building from scratch - was the connection points for  the numerous fans and the power connections for the graphics card - the instructions were a little vague and so needed extra research, but in the end again, was relatively straight forward.

Tidying Up the Case.  Having got everything in place and wired up, the next thing is to tidy up the wiring making sure it's kept clear of sensitive parts. The good thing with the Sabertooth motherboard is it has holes for you to feed the cabling through to the back to keep it out of the way.  Grouping the cables together and strategic use of ties works well.  This is what the final installation looks like.

The front................

..............and the back

Parts for the Beast

I'm glad  to say that despite my worries the package from Amazon arrived today without any further drama.  All I'm waiting for now is the RAM.

So here's a picture  of the parts for The Beast.  The interesting thing is that although the on-line power calculator shows that I only need a PSU of 490W, a quick read of the box for the GPU says a minimum of 600W is needed!! not to mention all the other components

 .....The message here is beware of online information.

Package Delayed!

I ordered some of the parts for my computer through Amazon in the States on 10 June and they made good time to New Zealand arriving in the country on 16 June. I then got a phone call from DHL letting me know it had arrived but that they needed an import code number from me.

The guy I was speaking to at DHL was very friendly and helpful and even sent me the forms and contact number for customs.  

What I'm a little annoyed about is that I paid Amazon an Import Fee Deposit (they actually hold that whether you like it or not) and yet it looks as though DHL are trying to charge me extra to make the import complete......we'll wait and see.

Calculating Power Requirements for the Computer

Having ordered the main component for the computer through Amazon (USA) and also through PC Online (NZ) I've looked at a couple of websites to see what kind of power supply unit (PSU) I will need. I went to the Cool Master site (http://www.coolermaster.outervision.com/) and also Power Supply Calculator (http://powersupplycalculator.net/).  A search on Google reveals that there are also many others that you could choose from.  However, the information below show the results from the Power Supply Calculator site.  Interestingly and reassuringly, the results from both sites confirmed pretty much the same power needs.

Idle power: 94 W

Idle power is the power drawn by the system when booted to a desktop while the computer is doing nothing at the given moment. Please note that idle power may be lower when computer screen is turned off or system is in deep sleep. Also if you have disabled any power saving features of the system, the result may vary. Idle power does not include power losses from the PSU itself.

Load power: 390 W

Load power is the average power drawn by the system when running an intense 3D-game with all CPU-cores, drives and peripherals operating at maximum load. Load power is the maximum power the system may use in a typical real-world scenario. Please note that load power is not the absolute maximum power of the system. By running a synthetic benchmark, power consumption may increase even further. Load power does not include power losses from the PSU itself.

Distribution of power

SYSTEM

CPU

GPU

RAM

DRIVES

PERIPHERALS

COOLING

idle

load

Recommended power supply: 490 W

This is the minimum recommended PSU wattage for the selected components. Choosing a lower wattage PSU increases the risk of system to become unstable and noise from PSU to become annoying. Choosing a higher wattage PSU decreases efficiency at lighter loads, but leaves a margin for overclocking and future upgrades and also ensures the PSU stays cool and quiet.

Buying Computer Parts

The time has come!  I've started buying parts for the computer and it's been an interesting experience.  It goes without saying that I've scouted around for best prices and in the end I settled for buying from Amazon.  I looked at Amazon.com, .uk and .au.  Prices with conversion appeared to favour .com (America) and .au at the moment is really only kindles and online books - no computer parts.  So I placed my order with .com and went through the pages to process it.

First thing - Although I could order the processor, the graphics card and the RAM and have them shipped to New Zealand,  I wasn't permitted to order the motherboard - WHY?  I'm sure the answer is there somewhere on the internet but I'm not going to waste time looking for it.

Second thing - Prices look good on Amazon, but be aware that when you get to Check Out two things are added - the first is delivery costs which, yeah, one would expect, but the second is the "Import Fees Deposit".  This is quite significant as it adds another 15% to the overall cost - so beware!!

Third thing - just be aware that if you're buying through  the states, but paying with a different currency this will need to be converted - you can guarantee, I'm sure, that you may not get the best of rates.....just another way to make a bit of extra money - I might be a bit cynical here ;-)

So, this is what I've ordered so far from Amazon (don't forget to add the delivery and import fee):

Ordered through Amazon.com (USA)

Buying the motherboard through a New Zealand firm

The Motherboard  As I couldn't order the motherboard through Amazon, I've ordered that locally in New Zealand through PC Online.  The prices, once you add the GST/VAT/taxes to the Amazon prices actually do end up being pretty similar - so be aware when comparing prices.

A big choice that takes a bit of research if you're not totally familiar with  the terminology.

The Screen - It doesn't always go right!

My idea for the screen was to use 3mm MDF to create the 180 degree surround screen with 1 1/2 boards joined together lengthways, but sadly it didn't work the way I planned as with movement the joints between the boards showed quite badly.

So, I'm trying a different solution - wall paper.  My thinking here is that by putting wall paper over the cracks this should hide the cracks pretty effectively.

If this doesn't work my only other - and final solution will be to apply another layer of MDF over  the existing, but making sure the joints are staggered - in other words creating a laminate.

Carpeting the floor

We recently laid some carpet tiles in our hall and so this provided the ideal opportunity to use the offcuts to carpet the floor space of my home-built.

Offcut carpet to deck out the floor space - bit missing behind the seats that I will get round to

Well the build of the flight deck is all but complete now and this short movie shows what it's looking like.  The panels (in case you don't notice) are still just cardboard cut outs, but the next step is to start buying the components for the computer and also source some reasonably priced touch screen monitors for the over head and the flight management computer.

I'm going to be using the touch screen monitors as a stop-gap as, believe it or not, it must be at least a year since I had a decent fly on flight sim. The ultimate aim will be to using electronics and programming to make all the functional switches and dials through out the system. This will take a lot longer.....longer than I can wait ;-)

Central Pedestal

Started work on the central pedestal last night in front of the fire.  Here I'm just joining some MDF to get the right height on the sides.....and being helped by my trusty co-pilot :-)

Over the weekend I've been putting the central pedestal into my cockpit.  Here are a couple of photos showing how it's all coming together - still cardboard cut-out panel

Initially, my plan is to use a touch screen monitor for the overhead and the FMC, and standard monitor for the main panel and engine management systems - co-pilot seat will be used primarily for those wanting to come along for a ride and enjoy a touch of in-flight hospitality and entertainment.

Central pedestal in place, but not fully painted up yet.

This is the ped in it's basic state showing the steps up from radio deck - closest, to throttle quadrant - centre, to FMC panel.

Colour Scheme

Work has kept me occupied for a few days, but I was able to carry on with a little bit of painting here and there.

Painting done - seats can go back in

So, this is just a small update - colour scheme complete - now it's time to bite the bullet and take the big step and start buying parts for the main computer

Video Outputs - Update

With the research I've been undertaking, it's become clear that there are at least two main options available if you want to use multiple video outputs - initially I'm looking at about 6 outputs; two data projectors, two standard monitors and two touch screen monitors.

The first option is to build a computer with duel graphics cards - there appear to be a couple of options in the way they can be connected using Scalable Link Interface (SLI) or Crossfire, but either way it seems to take a bit of a hit on frame rate. Although I haven't yet got my head fully around this, it makes sense because you're still only using one processor to drive the whole lot.

Duel Graphics Card option to provide multiple outputs - SLI/Crossfire

The other option is to use two computers joined together to provide multiple outputs.  Again, I haven't fully researched this, but it makes sense because in  this case you have got two processors managing the service - splitting the load.

Multi-screens with multiple computers  - this one might be a bit OTT!

I did contact Jetline systems (http://jetlinesystems.com/contact.php) and after a couple of attempts received a very comprehensive email giving some excellent, helpful and friendly advice.  Jetline are one of only a few companies that build specialised PCs for flight sim - based in the US they only supply to the US and Canada, but have been very willing to provide advice (I've deliberately not mentioned names for the sake of privacy).

Also, in recent editions of PC Pilot, they have started a discussion on home built flight sims - this is a bit limited at the moment as it is focussing on specific builds using purchased components, but I'm hoping they will continue this topic and become more generalised.

Still so much to do and find out, but I'm grateful for the support of the Flight sim community that is out there, always willing to offer help and support to those embarking on this great adventure.

A little bit of an earthquake

Last Friday we had a 6.2 earthquake take place a few kms away from us and I just had a thought earlier on this afternoon! I wonder what it would have been like sitting in my cockpit last Friday during the shake?

I don't know if you remember from my earlier post, but I've built the main structure on springs

.....I reckon it would have been pretty smooth - bit like the modern anti-quake technology they use in building

We were lucky - our quake was quite deep so there was little damage. My thoughts are with the people of Nepal who endured a 7.8 quake and have suffered much damage and casualties in the thousands.

Graphic Card Outputs for FSX - a Dilemma!

I'm almost now at the stage where I'm about to start buying the components for the computer that's going to be driving this beast and I've hit a bit of a barrier.

To begin with, I'm probably going o need up to 6 video outputs from the system - 2 short throw data projectors, 2 standard 19.5" LCD monitors and 2 touch screen monitors (one large for the overhead panel and a medium sized one for the FMC).

The problem I've got is that having done some research it seems that using two graphics cards with FSX doesn't seem to work too well (SLI or crossfire) - going by what one of the top Flight sim computer builders, Jet Line Systems, has to say.

http://jetlinesystems.com/performance.php 

I have now emailed Jet Lines three times, but have yet to receive a reply about what they can offer as a solution.

So, I know there is a solution because others have been there and done it, but what is this solution - If anyone knows please post a comment

Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 can provide up to 4 outputs from its 6 ports

At the moment, it's back to the internet to do more research to see if I can find a solution.....If anyone reading this blog has any advice, please feel free to offer constructive comment. Thank you.

Filling in the back

After a couple of weeks without having time to do any work on my project, this weekend is the ANZAC commemoration day of the landing of troops at Gallipoli and so after taking part in the formal ceremonies, I've had a bit of time to do some work.  Not much, but I've now filled in the back of the cockpit and painted the top of the instrument panel (you can see this in the foreground of the first photo)

The shiney black bit at the bottom is the top instrument panel - painted

Flightdeck coming alive with a coat of paint

Major step forward today - Virtually finished the build of the cockpit shell today and gave it its first coat on underpaint.  This really helps to turn it from a wooden structure into something that is beginning to resemble a flight deck.

Coming alive with a coat of paint